In the world of fashion, beauty is often seen as a fixed concept, one that is synonymous with symmetry, harmony, and aesthetic balance. However, there are designers who choose to reject this notion, opting instead to explore the boundaries of beauty by embracing irregularity and the avant-garde. Among these designers, one name stands out as a pioneer in challenging traditional beauty comme des garcon standards—Comme des Garçons, the Japanese fashion brand founded by Rei Kawakubo. Through her creative vision and deconstructionist approach, Kawakubo has consistently challenged our perceptions of beauty, redefining what is considered "beautiful" in the realm of fashion. One of the most intriguing aspects of Comme des Garçons is its unapologetic use of unconventional shapes and forms, which disrupt our understanding of the human body and fashion itself.
The Rejection of Conventional Proportions
From the very beginning, Rei Kawakubo's Comme des Garçons has sought to defy the established norms of fashion. The brand's earliest collections were far from the sleek and form-fitting garments that dominated the 1980s fashion scene. Instead, Kawakubo's designs were characterized by their exaggerated proportions, unexpected silhouettes, and an almost anti-fashion ethos. Her work with Comme des Garçons was a direct response to the rigid standards of beauty and femininity that were prevalent at the time.
Rather than celebrating the human body's natural curves, Comme des Garçons instead distorts and deconstructs the body, creating garments that are both challenging and thought-provoking. The shapes often appear asymmetrical, with pieces hanging in unconventional ways or billowing out in odd angles. Fabrics are manipulated to create volume and texture that obscure the body, often resulting in a disorienting yet captivating visual effect. These designs are not about flattering the body; rather, they are about expressing individuality and freeing fashion from traditional constraints.
The Power of the Abstract
In addition to rejecting traditional proportions, Comme des Garçons also embraces abstract and conceptual designs that push the boundaries of what we typically associate with fashion. Many of Kawakubo's collections feature garments that seem more like sculptural art than wearable clothing. For example, some of her pieces resemble works of art that prioritize form, texture, and experimentation over wearability or comfort. These designs often evoke a sense of otherworldliness, with shapes that seem to transcend conventional beauty altogether.
One of the most famous examples of this approach can be seen in Kawakubo's Spring/Summer 1997 collection, which featured oversized, bulbous silhouettes that completely obscured the human form. The garments were so extreme in their proportions that they seemed to exist as a kind of commentary on the human body itself. By removing the contours of the body from the equation, Kawakubo created garments that focused instead on texture, volume, and structure—allowing the wearer to become a living, breathing sculpture rather than a mere vessel for clothing.
This approach to design also challenges the idea of beauty as something that is universally agreed upon or inherently fixed. When beauty is confined to traditional forms, it leaves little room for experimentation and individuality. Kawakubo's work, on the other hand, suggests that beauty can be found in the unexpected and the unconventional. She encourages us to look beyond the surface and appreciate fashion as an evolving, dynamic art form.
Pushing the Boundaries of Gender and Identity
Comme des Garçons' exploration of unconventional shapes also extends to its treatment of gender and identity. In the 1980s, fashion was still deeply rooted in rigid gender roles, with clothing often designed to reflect and reinforce these roles. However, Comme des Garçons has long sought to challenge these conventions, offering designs that blur the lines between traditional masculine and feminine styles.
Kawakubo’s use of unconventional shapes has contributed to a more fluid understanding of gender in fashion. For instance, the brand's early collections featured garments that could easily be worn by both men and women, with shapes and cuts that were not inherently masculine or feminine. By refusing to adhere to conventional notions of gendered fashion, Comme des Garçons has helped pave the way for more gender-neutral and androgynous designs in the industry.
Furthermore, the brand’s focus on abstract shapes and non-traditional forms also allows wearers to express themselves in ways that are not limited by societal expectations. In doing so, Comme des Garçons has created a space for self-expression that is free from the constraints of traditional beauty standards and gender norms.
Cultural Impact and Influence
Over the years, Comme des Garçons' unconventional approach to beauty has had a profound impact on the fashion industry. The brand has inspired countless designers to take risks and experiment with form, texture, and shape in ways that were previously considered too radical. Kawakubo's work has shown that fashion doesn't have to be about conformity or following trends—it can be a vehicle for artistic expression and personal identity.
The influence of Comme des Garçons can be seen in the work of many contemporary designers who continue to push the boundaries of what fashion can be. From the deconstructivist approach of designers like Martin Margiela to the gender-fluid collections of brands like Haider Ackermann, the impact of Kawakubo's vision is undeniable.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons has challenged the very CDG Long Sleeve essence of beauty, offering an alternative vision that celebrates irregularity, abstraction, and self-expression. Through its use of unconventional shapes and forms, the brand has created a space for fashion to transcend the traditional definitions of beauty, allowing for greater creativity, individuality, and freedom. Rei Kawakubo's groundbreaking work has not only changed the way we think about fashion, but it has also reshaped our understanding of beauty itself, reminding us that true beauty lies not in conformity, but in the courage to be different.